Appreciated for its cozy and Old School side, tweed is none other than a fabric made of woven wool. Its discreet color effects are obtained by a thread of several twisted strands of wool in multiple colors. It diversified in the 19th century, notably thanks to the appearance of the "cheviot sheep" and has since adorned our clothes and our interiors...
Tweed and its history
The uncertain origin of tweed
Tweed comes from Scotland and Ireland, where farmers had to combat a climate unfavorable to outdoor work. As in any great legend, different versions appear, particularly regarding the origin of the name. According to a first hypothesis, tweed takes its name from a geographical location where the fabric was produced: the “Tweed Valley” in Scotland.
The second hypothesis would be that the fabric was referred to as "tweel" or "twill" according to the more classic spelling and that in 1826 a clerk in the city of London incorrectly transcribed this name and transformed it into “tweed”. All hypothesis being, tweed was a garment intended for work, particularly for farmers. This fabric is in fact very resistant to wind and rain and it retains heat.
Castle in the North West of Scotland
It was not until 1848, when Prince Albert acquired the Balmoral estate and created the famous "Balmoral Tweed", that tweed became a "gentlemen's" affair. This “Balmoral Tweed” was designed to resemble the granite stone surrounding the estate to blend into nature during deer hunts. He was the first of the very famous “Tweed Estates” that all English gentlemen who had acquired estates in Scotland rushed to create.
These “Estates tweeds” are worn by everyone who lives or works on the same estate. They are to be distinguished from Clan Tartans which correspond to a family and can only be worn by its members.
Cheviot sheep
A protected fabric
Situated in the Hebrides Archipelago, the Outer Hebrides Islands have a long history in the weaving industry. Tweed is made exclusively by hand, using the wool of sheep raised on site, which are commonly called “black faces”. At the beginning of the 19th century, production was still low. But the industrial revolution will quickly reach the islands. Weaving looms, spinning and carding machines will invade the premises. The production of tweed is then multiplied.
The enthusiasm for tweed, and in particular for Harris Tweed, pushed the British Parliament to define its characteristics with a law in 1893: “‘Harris Tweed’ is a tweed which was hand-woven by islanders, at home, within the very precise perimeter of the Outer Hebrides Islands, and more precisely in the islands of Harris, Lewis, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Barra. The tweed is thus made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in this same region of Scotland. This definition has changed over the years with the evolution of production methods.
Natural fiber tartans
In 1906, the Harris Tweed Association organized to create a label for this growing industry. From 1911, all quality tweeds could be identified by the symbol of the Harris Tweed Association. This certification is only given by inspectors on the condition that the tweed meets the legal definition and that no thread is broken in the weft.
In the 1930s, the production of tweed was such that it forced manufacturers to look for wool in Scotland. The legal definition of tweed was therefore broadened in 1934 to take into account this development concerning the origin of wool. This opening will generate a certain number of slip-ups: certain Scottish manufacturers will in fact start labeling their products with the “Harris Tweed” label.
In 1964, British justice was seized of a case of this type. It concludes that only pieces made in the Outer Hebrides will have the right to be marked with the precious “Harris Tweed” label.
Tweed today
A tweed, tweeds
It's impossible to talk about tweed without talking about tweeds. They are the ones who make this fabric a huge playground for the elegant. Tweeds are named according to the place of weaving, the animal from which the wool is taken or even the use to which it is put.
Here is a list of the famous ones:
- Donegal Tweed comes from Ireland and more particularly from the Donegal region from which it takes its name. This tweed has contrasting threads in the weave, which gives it a very sporty side.
- Saxony Tweed , which comes from Saxony, is very soft and is very suitable for making jackets.
- Harris Tweed is certainly the best known of all tweeds. This tweed has been governed by an authority since 1909 to protect this designation. This tweed was originally only hand-woven by people from the Hebrides Islands in Scotland. It is now machine-spun but must still be produced in these islands. An authenticity label must be affixed to the garment.
- Cheviot Tweed is named after the animal from which the wool is derived. It is very durable and offers a very beautiful drape. It is rough to the touch and heavier than most other tweeds.
- Shetland Tweed takes its name from the sheep raised on the Shetland Islands in Scotland. The wool of these sheep is particularly fine and soft, which gives a delicate and particularly beautiful tweed.
- Gamekeeper Tweed is the heaviest of the tweeds. It is particularly recommended to protect against extreme cold.
- Sporting Tweed was created to provide the best possible camouflage to hunters depending on their hunting environment.
Tweed clothing
Good to know: Too rough and too heavy, the wool of “black mouth” sheep is only used today to make carpets. Softer and lighter, it was the wool of Cheviot sheep, raised mainly in the Scottish Mainland, which took over.
Chameleon fabric with multiple uses
A symbiosis between the country and the know-how of its people, tweed is a chameleon fabric. The traditional colors used for the tint are in fact vegetable: ragweed and marigold for oranges, heather and nettle for greens, lichen and bedstraw for reds, fern root for yellows, elderberries for purples or iris for blue. The color effects are obtained in each thread by the twisting of several strands, all different. Each tweed corresponds to a landscape. The combination of colors, designs and patterns is almost endless.
Tweed Sofa
Tweeds are mainly sought after to make everyday clothing such as coats, jackets or hats. They are in fact quite waterproof and very resistant. They are traditionally worn for outdoor activities such as hunting, fishing and walking, both in Ireland and the United Kingdom. Today, they are also used in contemporary fashion and furnishings.
Sofa, armchair, bedding... in tweed!
If tweed has made a comeback in our interiors in recent years, it is above all thanks to the reissues of vintage retro styles and Scandinavian style. Nordic design is always associated with warm and robust fabrics, so tweed is an element of choice to complete this trend. Its appearance, its nuances and the quality of its fibers make it the perfect authentic and cozy touch at the heart of a decoration. Whether on a sofa, a chaise longue, a headboard... tweed is becoming increasingly popular. If this fabric only applies to the most precious pieces of furniture, many designers and furniture designers are inspired by the "tweed style" and make furniture covered in similar fabrics and with a retro look.
To go further, get to know the fabrics and fibers that make up our interiors.
Note: In 1956, Coco Chanel, who had borrowed her tweed jackets from her lover, the Duke of Westminster, ended up making them a flagship piece of her creations.
Tweed style bedding
